“After the first death, there is no other” – Dylan Thomas
The Center for Disease Control and Prevention has estimated that
foodborne diseases cause approximately 76 million illnesses, 325,000
hospitalizations, and 5,000 deaths in the United States each year. If
you are the mother of two-year-old Kevin Kowalcyk who died in 2001
after eating a hamburger contaminated with E. coli, however, statistics
do not tell the story of crushing personal loss. The tragedy of Kevin’s
premature death spurred legislation (known as Kevin’s Law) introduced
by Rep. Anna G. Eshoo, D-Palo Alto, that would give the U.S. Department
of Agriculture the power to close down plants that produce contaminated
meat but it has failed repeatedly to pass the U.S. Congress because of
opposition from the meat industry.
E-Coli outbreaks and other food-safety related issues are discussed in
the outstanding documentary Food, Inc., directed by Robert Kenner, a
film, graphic in part, that may leave you with a severe case of
indigestion. Kenner is an unabashed advocate for greater food safety
and the film with commentary by Eric Schlosser (Fast Food Nation) and
Michael Pollan (The Omnivore's Dilemma).attempts to convince the public
of the shortsightedness of the mega-corporations that dominate the food
industry and their "faster, fatter, bigger, cheaper," method of
increasing profits often at the expense of public safety.
Representatives from food-producing giants such as Monsanto,
Smithfield, Tyson and Perdue that control our food supply were invited
to be interviewed for the film but declined or did not respond to
Kenner’s request. According to Schlosser, "The industry doesn't want
you to know the truth about what you're eating - because if you knew,
you might not want to eat it."
Interviewing farmers and ranchers, Kenner learned that they are mostly
at the mercy of mega-corporations like Monsanto which have increased
their share of the soybean market from 2% to 90% in the last decade.
Monsanto developed their own custom gene for soybeans and now threaten
their customers with lawsuits for patent infringement if they save
their own seeds to use the next year. The film observes that part of
the reason why the food industry is so hard to regulate is that many of
the government officials currently assigned to watchdog roles were once
employed by the companies they now monitor and notes that FDA food
inspections have plummeted from 50,000 in 1972 to 9,200 in 2006.
Other subjects covered are the treatment of cows that are forced to eat
corn instead of grass (which then goes into Coke, high fructose corn
syrup, diapers, decongestants, and batteries) and the dreadful
conditions of chickens that are herded into darkened cages before they
are slaughtered. On that subject, Kenner interviews Carole Morrison who
was unwilling to jam her chickens into cages without sunlight and, as a
result, had her contract canceled by a giant chicken conglomerate who
refused to have any further business dealings with her. Also discussed
are the growing rates of diabetes in young people, the soaring
incidence of obesity, and the use of low paying illegal immigrants to
work in the food processing industry.
In spite of the horror stories, however, Food, Inc. is not depressing
and Kenner seems more interested in educating the public than
frightening them. He shows that people can make a difference by citing
the tobacco industry as well as the efforts of an entrepreneur from
Stonyfield Farms who sold his line of organic products to Wal-Mart and
a Virginia farmer who insists on raising animals with dignity and
respect. To the strain of Bruce Springsteen singing Woody Guthrie’s
“This Land is Your Land”, advice on how individuals can make a
difference include – buy locally, shop in farmer’s markets where
possible, seek out quality and organic products even if they cost a bit
more, and be sure to read the labeling to learn where a product comes
from and the ingredients it contains.
Food, Inc. by itself may not be the catalyst that will preserve our
health and well being and make food taste the way it did fifty years
ago, but it is an important start and should be seen by anyone who
eats, that means all of us. As the director puts it, “I think we're
beginning to see the dangers of this inexpensive food that these big
agribusinesses are producing. And the more we can see the cracks in
this system, the faster it’s going to fall apart. I'm hoping that this
film can help people to start to think about it…People are becoming
much more conscious of their food, and the more we think about it, the
more good food we’re going to get.” I’ll vote for that.