In Nouadhibou, a lonely
and isolated village sandwiched between the Atlantic Ocean and the Sahara
Desert in the Islamic Republic of Mauritania, Abdullah (Mohamed Mahmoud
Ould Mohamed), a seventeen-year old boy, arrives from Mali to visit his
mother before leaving for Europe. Unable to speak the local Hassanya language
and dressed only in Western clothes, he is a stranger in a strange land.
The film is Waiting for Happiness, in which Mauritanian director
Aderrahmane Sissako portrays the conflict between Western modernization
and local African traditions, basing the story on his own experience of
exile and return. It won the International Film Critics award for best
film in the Un Certain Regard section of Cannes in 2002.
The film is virtually
plotless and without dramatic arc, but filled with memorable images of
a culture whose way of life is threatened by Western values. Feeling like
an outcast, Abdullah sits by an open window watching a photographer taking
portraits, a merchant selling veils, women singing and flirting, an Asian
immigrant's karaoke serenading his girlfriend, and a mother playing the
Kora while teaching traditional songs to her young daughter. He struggles
to learn some Hassanya words from Khatra (Khatra Ould Abder Kader), a ten-year
old electrician's apprentice, but his heart is not in it. The only bonds
he establishes are with Nana, a prostitute who tells him her story of being
rejected by her husband when she went to visit him in France. Abdullah
finally agrees to dress in native clothes, but his awkward attempts to
fit in only underscore his alienation.
The film celebrates community,
moving between characters and incidents to explore the traditions that
the villagers want to preserve, and their struggle with symbols of progress.
The electrician Maata (Maata Ould Mohamed Abeid) has difficulty getting
electricity to work even with the help of his young apprentice Khatra.
Maata tries to teach Khatra his trade, but without much success. In a touching
sequence, after failing to install a light bulb in a primitive home, Khatra
senses that his master is feeling bad, puts his arm around the old man's
shoulders and tells him over and over again that everything's going to
be all right. Maata is a surrogate father for the orphaned boy and instructs
him in the ways of the world. In one moving scene, Matta tells him of a
friend who sailed away to Spain and France, never to be heard from again,
as Khatra falls asleep, resting his head against the old man's chest.
Nouadhibou is a sort of
limbo in which travelers wait to begin their journey abroad, the women
wait for a husband, the boys wait to grow up, people come and go. Backed
by the haunting music of Oumou Sangare, Sissako beautifully captures the
day-to-day reality in a part of the world that has been hidden to Westerners.
Images become transfixed in the mind: the windswept sand; a refugee's body
washed ashore; a group of ominous-looking trawlers anchored off the coast
slowly sinking in the mud; pristine whitewashed buildings shining in the
West African heat; an old man walking in the desert carrying a flickering
light bulb. Waiting For Happiness is a poignant meditation on the
transience of life and the conflict between progress and tradition. Reminiscent
of the films of Kiarostami in it's languid pace and use of nonprofessional
actors, the film takes a while to get you in its grip, but when it does,
it refuses to let go.